Chinggis Khaan is in evidence in so many places in Mongolia - mostly in statuary, but as a brand name as well. In our early days in Ulaanbaatar we came through Sukhbaatar Square just as these military guards were marching into the Square and up the steps of Parliament House. As usual, Chinggis Khaan presides. Sukhbaatar Square is in the centre of the city. It's where Damdin Sukhbaatar, after whom the Square was named, declared independence from the Chinese. It is also the site of early protests that led to the fall of communism and the Soviet regime in Mongolia.
We never discovered what occasion prompted the arrival and stationing of these guards. That week and for the week that followed a large number of civil wedding ceremonies took place, apparently because the stars were aligned with the full moon which is believed to be a propitious time for new beginnings. Getting married on a Tuesday afternoon didn't seem to be a big problem.
The Zaisan Memorial is situated on top of a hill south of the city and very close to Judith's school. It was built by the Russians to commemorate unknown soldiers from various wars. On the south face of the monument is the long, steep stairway that leads to a full view of the city and the surrounding hills.
In early September Judith and some of her colleagues hiked Bogd Khan behind the Zaisan Monument. This is a view of the city and the surrounding hills from the summit.
The hike up the mountain could have been in a wooded walk in BC were the common Mongolian sight of these coloured prayer flags not so much in evidence.
Our ascent took about 3 hours. The day started out cool but warmed up considerably. Mornings are always cooler and it's not uncommon to have a temperature range of 15 to 20 degrees on any given day. We had a beautiful day for our hike and finished the day on the balcony of a neighbourhood pub at the base of the mountain, from where the photo of the Zaisan Monument was taken.
Just another roadside attraction! On our first full weekend in Mongolia the new staff and their families went to a ger camp in Gorkhi-Terelj National Park. We stopped en route to get up close and personal with this vulture.
Close to where we stayed in Terelj some of our group were able to go horse back riding. This little fellow is only about 3 years old. He was strapped onto the saddle but probably didn't need to be. He was confident and clearly knew his way around a horse.
Mongolia experienced a much rainier July than normal so things were very green when we arrived in early August. When we were at Terelj the alpine meadows were in full bloom.
We hiked to the Gunjiin Sum Buddhist temple hidden away in the valley of the river, Baruun Bayan Gol. The temple is part of what was a much larger Manchurian influenced monastery that has survived the ravages of time and was one of very few to escape the Stalinist purges. The view of the valley from the temple is stunning.
This kitten lived at the lodge and while it was a very social creature it was definitely striving to be an outdoor cat. We weren't too sure it would survive to adulthood before one of the many eagles in the valley got it first!
Most of the expat teaching staff at Judith's school live in 2 large apartment complexes just south of the city centre and within about a 20-minute walk from work. Our complex is called Bayan Mongol and this view of the entrance shows only one of the many buildings. Our apartment is slightly to the right and north of this. Along the ground floor of the building in this photo are a series of small shops, including 2 grocery marts, a bank, a pharmacy, a coffee shop, a dry cleaner and a small appliance shop.
Ulaanbaatar has much to offer in the realm of arts and culture and if one wished, there could be something to see and do every night of the week. Altan Urag is a rock band that uses traditional Mongolian instruments and melodies and incorporates throat singing in their performances. We saw them perform in a pub not far from where we live.
The International School of Ulaanbaatar (ISU) celebrated its 20th anniversary in September with 2 days of special events and a formal ceremony for which the weather cooperated in full. This view shows the school population seated outdoors facing the speakers and special guests who joined us for the celebrations. ISU's inception coincides closely with the birth of Mongolian democracy making this anniversary of particular significance.
One of our Mongolian Education Assistants is showing students how to play a traditional game that involves tossing replicas of the ankle bones of sheep. Each throw of the bones displays a different configuration of bones and each gives a different message.
The modern day Mongolian language is written in cyrillic as a result of such a long period of Russian dominance and rule and many Mongolians over the age of 40 speak and write Russian as well as Mongolian. The original Mongolian language was written in calligraphic script and this is still in evidence on some public signage. At the fall fair a calligrapher demonstrates the art of Mongolian calligraphy.
ISU's annual fall fair took place in early September. One of the performers at the fair was this Mongolian throat singer. In the background beyond the school fence is a glimpse of the base of the steppes that are just south of the school.
Another performer was one of the many highly skilled contortionists in Mongolia. This fall one of the school's co-curricular activities is to teach students the art and skill of contortionism.
It is a tradition at ISU for the Mongolian staff to host khorkhog (pronounced horhog) on a Saturday early in the school year. Everyone travels to a park at some distance from the city for this all-day event. Large sealed metal pots are filled with mutton, potatoes, carrots, water and onions along with hot rocks and placed to cook for several hours over an open fire. When the khorkhorg is cooked and before everyone begins to eat, the hot rocks are removed and passed from person to person for good health (and very hot, greasy hands!).
Then before the feast began these men invited all the adults to stand in a circle while a silver bowl filled with vodka was passed. Each person dipped their ring finger into the vodka 3 times and at each dip flicked a drop of vodka - one to the sky, one to the earth and the last to one's heart. One is meant then to down the bowl of vodka but those who wished to remain standing were allowed to take just a sip.
Mongolians love to sing and make music!
During the fall break in October we travelled with 2 other school families to spend a few days at the Secret History Ger Camp located 110 kilometres northwest of Ulaanbaatar. Our stay coincided with the warmest days we had in October. Looking north from the gers is the wide-open expanse of steppe lands; behind the gers is a wooded hilly landscape.
According to shamanistic belief these blue scarves represent the sky and are placed on this tree to honour the tengers (sky gods).
On the hill directly overlooking the gers we came upon this statue of a shaman. Close by was a teepee- like structure where there was evidence of recent shamanistic gatherings.
Judith and a colleague stop to sit in the sun and chat on their way down the mountain. No gloves or hats were needed, it was that warm!
Mahmoud, Josée and Scott had a grand time in their traditional Mongolian garments. The men are wearing replicas of the armour worn during the time of Chinggis Khan, leather and metal over a wool deal (pronounced dell). No wonder Mongolian horses are so strong.
A Mongolian herder is bringing a couple of his horses back to the barn. The wild Mongolian horses, called takhi have 66 chromosomes, compared to 64 chromosomes in domestic horses, and are well-suited to their nomadic life on the Mongolian steppes.
Scott discovered that Mongolian horses don't respond to physical directives but rather to voice commands. Of course for this one must know the Mongolian words ...
The view of seemingly endless steppe lands, valleys, and mountains seen from the summit above the ger camp where we stayed. Proof positive that there is much more of Mongolia left to see.
