Sunrise to Sunset: Khovsgol Nuur National Park

On August 2 we left Ulaanbaatar by air for a 90-minute flight to the Murun Airport in Northern Mongolia. Most of us on the flight were headed to Lake Khovsgol for the Sunrise to Sunset Marathon and Ultra-Marathon. We and all of our gear were picked up at the airport by camp staff for transportation by van to the Toilogt Ger Camp located approximately 100 kilometres from Murun.  

Toilogt Ger Camp is located on the western shore of Lake Khovsgol 17 kilometres from the southern tip of the lake. On arrival we were assigned to our gers or teepees (yes, there are teepees in Mongolia). The 2 wooden ger-shaped buildings in the photo are the restaurant and the performance venue where local folk music artists perform for guests. 

Assembled for a first briefing on marathon details this constitutes about half the number of participants. 

This glimpse of Lake Khovsgol only hints at its proportions. In surface area this is the second-largest lake in Mongolia but it is by far the deepest at up to 262 metres deep and it is the world's 14th-largest source of fresh water. 

This hazy view of the mountains behind this shallow arm of the lake gives some sense of the altitude. Toilogt Camp sits at 1600 metres. The highest altitude on the marathon route was 2300 metres. 

There were many lakeshore walks, each with its particular view. 

Toilogt Camp owns this boat and conducts excursions around and across the lake. Many come to this area to fish and one of the people on our flight from UB had come for a week of fly fishing. Mongolian fishing permits for foreigners are strictly for catch and release only. 

A view from inside our ger which we shared with another couple who are colleagues from Judith's school. We had good weather during our week in Khovsgol with only a little rain. The early mornings are chilly though so a fire helps to start the day. 

A few guests at the camp had come for an 11-day horse-trekking expedition. Preparation and packing was critical as they were heading into deep wilderness far from amenities of any kind. The camp employs experienced Mongolian horsemen to act as guides and to oversee all preparation and packing for the trips.

There is a significant amount of gear and supplies needed and its a study in precision to watch the horsemen organize and pack everything while evenly distributing the weight.

Yes, those are wooden saddles.

One pack horse ready, with a few more to load.

Canoes and kayaks were available for guests to use. The canoes were in better shape than the kayaks so we opted for a canoe to paddle along the lake shore.

Sunrise to Sunset is a bit of a misnomer as our day began significantly before sunrise. Our wake-up call was at 2 a.m. on August 7, breakfast was at 3 followed by backpack checks before our start time at 4 a.m.  The first 2.5 km was through the forest leading north from the camp and this section was completed with flashlights or headlamps. Several kilometres down the road we were lucky to catch this view of the sunrise as it made its appearance through the clouds.

Does fireweed grow everywhere? It, and many other wildflowers were in bloom. The green splash of paint on the tree is a route marker, not needed so much on this section but critical once we were well into the wilderness. We never had the intention to run any of the 42 km route but we made good time on the flat sections, knowing the ups and downs would be much slower. Our goal was to complete the route - and not be injured in the process!

Our first test came about 12 km from camp as we began our ascent to Chichee Pass in a vertical rise of 650m over 5 km. Amazing views in every direction were our reward. And yes, we were above the clouds.

The second vertical rise came at the 25 km point. It was harder, being on much more uneven ground and more steep. As we arrived at Khirvesteg Pass, however, we had this view. Just beyond the ridge of the mountains in the background is Russia.

While the uphill climbs were challenging the downhill portions were brutal. This may look like a lovely grassy meadow but underfoot it was rocky and unstable. These sections made us glad we had opted to take a walking pole with us. The dark figure ahead of Judith is a Mongolian horseman whose job that day was to ensure all the race participants were accounted for as they passed the 28 km point. Having chosen to walk the course we were the last so the horseman was our companion for the final sections of the race.

Just under 13 hours after our start we walked across the finish line. We were tired and we had sore muscles but we still upright and smiling. And it was well before sunset!

Most of the 100km participants had arrived by the time the sun set over the lake, with only 3 runners arriving after dark and during a thunderstorm.

The day following the race was one of rest and relaxation but there was a celebratory dinner held in honour of all race participants and to acknowledge the 15th anniversary of the Mongolia Sunrise to Sunset Marathon and Ultra-Marathon. 

Mongolian Wrestling

Here he is. The archetypal Mongolian wrestler in traditional costume. The circular medallion on his cap indicates five victories in the national Naadam festival.  Deceptively quick and powerful.   

All the wrestling is preceded by various cultural events. In this case it's dancing.

First the women.

Then the men & women.

And the military band played on ( too )

When the time comes for the actual wrestling event the contestants just stand up in the seating area and  put on their costumes.  No fancy dressing rooms or fan fair.  Just the business of getting ready.

Nearly 200 contestants this time and all their names are read off, they step forward and are acknowledged by their supporters in the stands.  The rectangular badges on the caps indicate provincial wins.

Once things actually get under way it's not unlike battle.  Perhaps twenty or thirty wrestlers can be on the floor at a time the winner moving on to the next round.

The traditional wrestling costume reveals the chest to prove the opponent is Not a woman.  Apparently, many centuries ago,  one of the great Khans' relatives turned out to be an undefeated woman.  The costume changes were to prevent future embarrassment.

As the bouts progress, more complex and ritualized grips on the costume are set to try and get a winner.

It really is a case of the "last man standing wins" as each wrestler works his way up the elimination ladder.

This particular event was a gruelling seven hour ordeal with the last pair pitting a forty year old against a twenty-four year old.

The youngster won but not without a very trying challenge.

Ayanchin

For the long Tsagaan Sar weekend a group of us went to experience the Mongolian winter in the countryside. Ayanchin Lodge is located in Gorkhi-Terelj National Park, about a 2-hour drive from Ulaanbaatar. We visited Terelj on our first weekend in Mongolia and were impressed with its beauty; it is just as beautiful, in different ways, during the winter. The daytime temperatures were in the minus 20s, with brilliant sunshine for the 3 days we were there. We were dressed for the weather and spent as much time outdoors as we could.

Ayanchin has a central lodge as well as several gers and a few cabins. All are winterized and comfortable but we chose to stay in the lodge as suiting up in the middle of the night for trips to the bathroom seemed less than appealing. Despite its size, Ayanchin looks diminished by the expanse of the geography that surrounds it. While out walking, this shot was taken from the west of Ayanchin.

From every window in the lodge and from outdoors in any direction one looked there was a magnificent - and different view.

Yes, that's a sled. And yes, we did go sledding. Judith wants to go back next year with cross-country skis.

Kathy, Dan, Judith and Mahmoud on the hill behind the lodge contemplating the view in every direction. Scott is behind the camera. Of course!

Tsagaan Sar

Tsagaan Sar - The White Month of the Mongols

Tsagaan Sar, celebrated as the Mongolian New Year, has been celebrated since the 13th century. During the Soviet régime this holiday was suppressed and traditions were prohibited in all but the most remote areas of Mongolia. Since the declaration of democracy in the early '90s Mongolians have revived the old traditions and it is celebrated on a nationwide scale. Special foods are eaten and rituals are observed during this national holiday. The Mongolian staff at ISU planned a special excursion and celebration to share their Tsagaan Sar rituals with the expatriate staff; this was held about 2 weeks before the actual date for the Mongolian new year at a ger camp about a 45-minute drive from the city.

   
The large ger is said to be the largest in the world. The smaller gers look tiny by comparison but they are of a fairly standard size.
 

    The scale of the size of the the regular-sized gers is evident with the staff arriving for their day of
    Tsagaan Sar activities. Many of the expat staff, like their Mongolian colleagues, have dressed in
    traditional clothing; Mongolians are honoured when expatriates embrace Mongolian customs.

    Inside the large ger are the thrones for the King and Queen of Tsagaan Sar. Hanging between the
    lathing behind the seats of honour are snow leopard pelts, used for decoration and as insulation
    against the cold. The snow leopard is an endangered species and individuals are not permitted to
    own the pelts. These were confiscated from individuals who historically had hunted the snow
    leopard and who no longer had the right to own them.

Some of the traditional foods are explained. The layers are created with loaves of bread and the white
squares are dried cheese curd. The bread is placed in an uneven number of layers, each layer representing the happiness and sadness of life, alternatively. Tsagaan Sar is very much a family
holiday and in the weeks leading to this holiday the stores display and sell the traditional foods that
are prepared and served.
   

                      One of the musicians who provided entertainment is seated holding a "morin
                      hurr" his traditional horse head fiddle. In addition to playing his fiddle this
                      Mongolian man is a talented throat singer.

                       A Mongolian elder standing in front of the ceremonial head table and chairs.

And then outside to play ... quite literally, everyone went outdoors to play traditional games together.